Bamboo for screening in Wichita KS

[mjm7757]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and bamboo but have been doing a fair amount of reading and researching. I'm looking for a bamboo that will make for a good privacy screen in my backyard. I've included an aerial view of the backyard with north oriented up which shows the desired screen with red lines. For the most part, these planting locations would receive nearly if not full sun all day. I realize that's quite a lot of space to fill with one large planting and am open to doing it in stages as the first plantings get established. After doing some reading I think I'm interested in something like Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'Spectabilis.' Being that this is a running type I realize it will require some maintenance to keep it in the desired location. My first thought was full rhizome barrier around the desired planting areas, however that would be quite a few linear feet and most likely prohibitively expensive. Another option is planting boxes, however that would probably run into the cost barrier as well.

What I'm looking for from the forum is any advice you can give me regarding planting, species selection, where to buy, containment, and basically any gems of wisdom that have made you a successful bamboo grower. Thanks for your help and let me know if you need anymore information.



I think I would actually plant that lower right line on the outside of the fence since there are rocks on the inside.

[oobmab]

I think an in-ground barrier between the street on the east and your fence along the property line with your neighbor would suffice there. That whole section on the east could fill up with bamboo with little chance of getting out of control. An option you have for the rest is to use planters, such as 55 gallon plastic barrels cut in half, staggered for good blocking effect. Don't know what plastic barrels cost in your area, but I have gotten them for free from a Pepsi bottling plant before. Even metal barrels would work, and from my experience, they tend to be cheaper. Wichita's a big place, so you might be able to find cost effective solutions. Check out salvage places for cheap planter possibilities. I lived in a place with a salvage company that received discarded containers made out of stainless and plastic that would have made most excellent planters.

Also, consider the possibility of planting more than one type of Phyllostachys to compensate for the possibility of losing everything if the one species you plant decides to flower and die. You can plant two or more species in layers.

And keep your eye open for plantings of bamboo that people might let you dig for free. 95% of my bamboo cost sweat equity plus gas.

Another possibility is to call billboard companies to see if they will let you have (for free) the old PVC sign coverings that have run their course. Folded enough times and installed at an angle, I think these would serve as a good ground barrier. Might be able to do your whole backyard that way.

[Nicholas]

.. An option you have for the rest is to use planters, such as 55 gallon plastic barrels cut in half, staggered for good blocking effect.

You have to be really careful with that. Unless the material has been shown to properly resist rhizome pressure I'd be reluctant to use it.
The problem is that, while the bamboo most likely won't penetrate early on, it might do so later effectively rendering the whole thing useless.

Even metal barrels would work, and from my experience, they tend to be cheaper. Wichita's a big place, so you might be able to find cost effective solutions. Check out salvage places for cheap planter possibilities. I lived in a place with a salvage company that received discarded containers made out of stainless and plastic that would have made most excellent planters.

I think stainless steel or aluminium is a good option, concrete can also work if it is thick enough.

Another possibility is to call billboard companies to see if they will let you have (for free) the old PVC sign coverings that have run their course. Folded enough times and installed at an angle, I think these would serve as a good ground barrier. Might be able to do your whole backyard that way.

Basically my opinion on the topic of rhizome barriers is this: Either go all the way or don't do it at all. (I'd get 2mm thick 1m wide HDPE)
I've posted a link to a german article where they did tests with different materials on their suitability as a rhizome barrier in one of my previous posts.
You are better off spending a bit more on the materials with the knowledge that they will last possibly decades rather than scavenging/buying something that might fail after just a few years in ground. (Which effectively negates all your effort and money put into the barrier at that point)

In regards to planters I'll use the opportunity to post a (I think swiss) youtube video I found which shows a really neat design.
They have a water barrier at the bottom to prevent rhizomes from escaping (basically the pot has drainage holes going into a reservoir where rhizomes would have to dive through the water to get out. Something bamboo absolutely hates!

Forward to 2:40 for the planters

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPJutqT1IGo

Stupid me, I watched the video and realised he is explaining the concept but it might not be clear. Basically he's saying that they build planters out of steel and that they put in a false bottom so water can drain down. In this lower area water pools up and there is a steel barrier that is open just at the bottom. that way water can flow from one compartment to the other and then drain there but rhizomes would have to dive through to get to the opening. If the concept is still unclear I might draw it up

[needmore]

I am wondering if your pool bottom is made from a material that the rhizomes may puncture?

[Alan_L]

I'd actually avoid the half-barrel solution. I've been growing plants in large pots of about this size, and there are limitations -- mainly it's really hard to keep them happily watered when it's hot. I'd probably opt for rhizome barrier on outside (fenceline), then mulch-filled trench on the inner sides with yearly rhizome pruning.

I'd probably also avoid using a single species/variety, and go for three or four, letting them mix where they want to.

How protected is your neighborhood? There are some trees, but will the bamboo get hit hard by winter winds every year?

[jd.]

After doing some reading I think I'm interested in something like Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'Spectabilis.'

That's a good choice of bamboo for that climate. After a colder than usual winter expect a bamboo screen to require extra maintenance in the spring.

[Franco]

I agree with mixing up the varieties - for one thing, looking at that much of the same bamboo will get boring. You could look at using some Fargesia's (clumpers). Rufa, Scabrida, Nitida, Murielae and Jiuzhaigou should be hardy in your zone, but they grow relatively slowly and they are not likely to get much taller than perhaps 7-8 feet (maybe 9?), and they have much more slender culms that weep more than the P. aureosulcata (though that one also tends to weep somewhat until it is fairly mature). They would of course not require rhizome barriers.

In fact, at the risk of being banned from this forum ,I would suggest that you might want to break up the perimeter with a few trees, tall shrubs, perhaps a climbing rose or two, etc...

[jd.]

You could look at using some Fargesia's (clumpers). Rufa, Scabrida, Nitida, Murielae and Jiuzhaigou should be hardy in your zone, but they grow relatively slowly and they are not likely to get much taller than perhaps 7-8 feet (maybe 9?),

How well would those Fargesias handle average summer highs around 95°F (30°C) in full sun?

I would suggest that you might want to break up the perimeter with a few trees, tall shrubs, perhaps a climbing rose or two, etc...

Techny Arborvitae can make a solid screen. Technito Arborvitae is a more compact sport with denser foliage.
Bamboo can yield a screen in less time but its vigor demands more maintenance, especially in a climate where winter damage may occur.

[terrabamboo]

Basically my opinion on the topic of rhizome barriers is this: Either go all the way or don't do it at all. (I'd get 2mm thick 1m wide HDPE)

Nicolas et. al,

Do you have a contact where I can get this directly from a manufacturer in a large pallet-sized roll?

[terrabamboo]

p. nuda would be a nice consideration

Phyllostachys Nuda
Plant introduction number (PI) into the U.S. 103938
Average mature size 1.75" x 34' Hardy to -15 F
Aggressive in full sun
Privacy Screening

This is the most cold hardy of the running bamboo and the roots can survive to - 20 F. when established and mulched well.
In zone 4, Idaho, we have reports of this species doing great. There is some foliage drop, but new canes have came back even when temps have gone to -30F.

At the Denver Zoo, climate zone 5, after over 12 years nuda has sized out at an average of 10 feet in height by .50 inch diameter canes. It will remain evergreen in zone 5 after establishment of the rhizome system.

Climate Zone 7 expect mature size canes to be over 30 feet. in height.
Climate Zone 6 expect mature size canes to be 18 feet in height.
Climate Zone 5 expect mature size canes to be 10 feet in height.
Climate Zone 4 expect mature size canes to be 8 feet in height.

[johnw]

You could look at using some Fargesia's (clumpers). Rufa, Scabrida, Nitida, Murielae and Jiuzhaigou should be hardy in your zone, but they grow relatively slowly and they are not likely to get much taller than perhaps 7-8 feet (maybe 9?), and they have much more slender culms that weep more than the P. aureosulcata (though that one also tends to weep somewhat until it is fairly mature). They would of course not require rhizome barriers.

Those Fargesias wouldn't last long through a Kansas summer though.

[Nicholas]

Basically my opinion on the topic of rhizome barriers is this: Either go all the way or don't do it at all. (I'd get 2mm thick 1m wide HDPE)

Nicolas et. al,

Do you have a contact where I can get this directly from a manufacturer in a large pallet-sized roll?

I've only looked at suppliers in Europe so I don't know if it will help you. If you are interested I'll browse through my links to find them.
Here a reasonable price for the 2mm thick 1m wide HDPE is about 8 euros per running meter. Not exactly cheap but it lasts a long time. They sometimes use it to protect groundwater in waste disposal sites.
If you want to buy in bulk maybe it would make sense to see if a supplier for waste disposal has it or maybe a plastics manufacturer (I believe one of the companies I looked up was specialized in producing polyethylene wrapping)

Here is the link to my previous post for materials:

http://bambooweb.info/bb/viewtopic.php? ... =15#p63945

[terrabamboo]

I was looking more at wholesale - buying several thousand feet at a time to have on hand for customers and myself.....

[utahraptor]

Are you wanting to plant it in the orange area?



I think it would be very hard to contain that without a full on large barrier.

I also live in Wichita and I have had great success with Phyllostachys atrovaginata and Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'Spectabilis'. I use a mulch trench or sorts to contain it which I have to dig through in the spring and fall to stop escaped rhizomes.

The person saying the Fargesia won't survive our summer is correct. I planted F. rufa a few years ago and it is the same size as the day I planted it. Every year it shoots early in the spring and they all the progress dies away in the late summer.

[Franco]

True, some of those Fargesia's would be seriously scorched by full sun, >90 degrees, and no precipitation for a week or two straight - but not all. Both Rufa and Robusta 'pingwu' (and potentially Scabrida) would likely be fine, or experience little damage with proper care (water, mist, mulch), particularly on non-Southern exposures.

e.g. Bamboo Garden on Fargesia sp. Rufa: "We have customers who have grown very successful evergreen screens, using Fargesia sp. Rufa in places such as Michigan, New York, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Tennessee, Missouri, Idaho, South Carolina, and many other states."

Not sure what is going on with the above-mentioned planting of Rufa, but I would suggest location and perhaps other factors are at work. Rufa is typically rated to zone 9 (sure, a more temperate zone 9). Still, it's not dying in zone 6B only because of the heat.